I have found myself tasked with the impossible: find the capital-B, Best calamari in Rhode Island. I’ve definitely had good calamari. I’ve undoubtedly had bad calamari, but have I had the best? Is there such a thing? In late June of 2014 a decree was made: Calamari was named the official fuel of Rhode Islanders when Governor Lincoln Chafee signed it into law as the state’s official appetizer. Calamari is not just a food, but a part of the culture in Rhode Island — “Rhode Island Style” calamari is not just an appetizer to knock back before the main course. It is a rite of passage. Even as I complete my journey, I find it doubtful that I have scratched the surface of the best that RI has to offer, but through this calamari crawl I’ve found that there are some definite top contenders. There is some darn good (and equally cheap) calamari in this tiny state that also boasts the most squid fishing on the East Coast.
Initially I first sought out the buzz of the town, asked some locals, made some Google searches, and ultimately settled on a few top contenders: Los Andes, a Peruvian restaurant in the heart of Providence; Benjamin’s in the Newport; and Iggy’s boardwalk in Warwick. Some other strong contenders that I plan to keep written down on a piece of paper in my pocket, for when the calamari hankering hits, include Spumoni’s, The Wharf, Anthony’s Seafood, Hemenways, Providence Oyster Bar, and Dune Brothers.
I began my first inquiry at Iggy’s. A classic, I was familiar with their clam cake work, but squid – not so much. I took my food down to Oakland beach and sat, eager to dig in, and let me say, WOWZA, was it good! For $12.99 you get a good heap of food. The calamari was well battered, but not overly crispy, so if you prefer more batter, Iggy’s is the place for you. The flavor shines, especially with a nice squeeze of lemon. Marinara costs extra, but is definitely worth the splurge. I accidentally ordered the plain version (a technical whoops) so it was pepperless. Still as calamari goes, Iggy’s stands strongly on its own two feet!
My second venture took me to Los Andes. I walked through their stunning courtyard to a busy, bustling restaurant. And I must say the calamari was crisp. It was served with an unexpected but delicious balsamic glaze, and a side mixture of chopped corn, cheese, and banana and red peppers in a warm oil that was deliciously drizzled overtop. The corn was the unexpected beauty of this dining experience – Peruvian choclo–white sweet corn that was perfectly refreshing. The calamari was not so crispy that the squid was chewy; instead the squid and breading were in an appetizing harmony. And the calamari had full calamaretti that were just as tasty as the dish’s rings, which definitely make it worth the $17 dollars. If you find yourself in the area, looking to enjoy something delicious but different than the usual, make your way to Los Andes.
I ended my trek with the farthest establishment, Benjamin’s, in Newport. For most of RI, to cross a bridge requires a packed lunch, an umbrella, and a beach chair, but for Benjamin’s I would go as far as to say, hold off on the lunch; you’ll want to arrive hungry! Parking is a nightmare and the road is bumpy, but I promise if you have a food runner ready to pounce as the driver circles the block you’re going to be in for some of the best calamari of your life – I’d even argue, decidedly the best calamari I found in Rhode Island. Benjamin’s is hard to miss, the staff is all smiles, and the food is fresh. You have to hike to the second floor for pickup but the service is swift so be ready to pay your $14.95 calamari tab. Now, what you’re reading for – the calamari. Benjamin’s calamari will make you say, “Wow,” out loud. The breading packs a crisp crunch and the squid quite literally melts in your mouth. It offers the perfect mixture of fresh lemon, jalapenos, and banana peppers, with flavor that lingers on the tongue but doesn’t burn. And it comes with a robust tomato sauce that’s hearty and fresh. Benjamin’s has mastered the squid-to-breading ratio, light and airy, but equally filling. The next time you find yourself in Newport, scan your surroundings for the big red building with the green awnings – when you lock eyes know you’re in for a delicious treat. •
