Flavors of Fall

It might not quite feel like fall, but the beginning of September heralds our autumnal arrival. I love September. Whether it’s the geeky girl in me who loves those ‘back to school’ trips to Staples or the redhead who’s totally over sunburn, September has always been my favorite month.

Each new page on the cook’s calendar brings new ripening vegetables and fruits, and September also marks the start of a new season. That’s when the newly available produce gets really exciting. The sweet, light flavors of summer are starting to peter out and the earthy, wholesome ones of fall are beginning to sneak their way onto menus. While not completely in comfort food mode yet, it’s lovely to be able to start including some rich, warm flavors in my cooking. Here are some of my favorite early autumn, September recipes:

Celeriac Mash
Will generously serve 2 or modestly serve 4

This ugly root might not scream tasty when you see its gnarled, hairy sprouts tangling at the bottom of the muddy white bulb, but it’s a seriously tasty little chap.

1 celeriac – an average 1-1½ lb. root yields about 1 cup when peeled and chopped
drizzle of olive oil
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup half and half
1 teaspoon of horseradish – either fresh grated or the creamed condiment variety
salt and pepper

Use a sharp knife to cut away the tangle of fiddly roots at the bottom of the celeriac, then again to peel away the rough skin.

Cut into rough chunks about a inch cubed, toss in olive oil in a baking dish and season with salt and pepper.

Roast in the oven at 390 degrees Fahrenheit for 25 minutes, shaking the pan after about 10 minutes to free them from sticking to the pan and re-coating them in the oil.

At the end of the cooking time, check to see that they are very tender to the touch with lightly browned edges. Tumble the cooked cubes into a food processor and add in the butter, half and half, and horseradish.

Blend into a smooth paste then season with more salt and pepper to taste.

This sweet, creamy mash goes really well with simple roasted chicken thighs, rubbed with a little garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Endive, Grape, Goat Cheese and Honey Salad
Ingredients listed are per person, multiply as needed

The slightly bitter, crunchy endive is a great base for the salty goat cheese with the sweet honey and grapes. This is a great salad that uses seasonal produce in a light, late-summer way.

1 belgian endive
1 oz. goat cheese
6 red grapes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
salt and pepper

Prepare the endive by chopping off the stalk end and clicking the leaves away from the center. Though relatively ridged, they will crack, so try and keep the leaves intact as they create lovely natural bowls for the cheese crumbles and dressing.

Slice the grapes length-ways and arrange over the endive. Crumble over the goat cheese then drizzle over the honey.

Dress the salad with a simple dressing of the mixed oil and vinegar, then season with salt and pepper.

A great start to a heavier meal, the endive gives a robust base to the salad while the grapes keep the salad light and fresh.

Sunchoke and Cashew Soup
Serves 4

Also called Jerusalem artichokes, this sunchoke soup is made deliciously creamy by the addition of raw cashew nuts.

3 cups sunchokes
4 cloves garlic
1 medium white onion
1½ cups raw cashew nuts
4 cups of chicken or vegetable stock
olive oil
salt and pepper

Scrub the chokes with a medium bristled brush to remove any dirt and rough patches of skin, then chop them in half. Cut any especially large chokes into quarters so that they are all equally about an inch cubed.

Toss the chokes in olive oil, salt and pepper, and tumble into a baking dish along with the peeled garlic cloves.

Roast at 390 degrees Fahrenheit for about 25 minutes or until tender.

Dice the onion and fry in a little oil in a large stock pot for about 10 minutes on a low heat until the onion is meltingly soft and unctuous. Use a low heat to keep the onion from browning; this will keep the flavor mellow and sweet.

When the sunchokes are tender, pour them, the roasted garlic and any pan oils into the stock pot with the onions. Add the stock and raw cashews, then bring to a high simmer for 10 minutes.

Use a stick blender to puree everything into a thick creamy soup.

Serve with a blob of creme fraiche or sour cream, a drizzle of oil and some fresh parsley as a tasty autumn lunch.