When the wind whips down South Main on a cold winter night, I’m happy for my knee length coat, hurrying to meet my guide John Gendron for our first speakeasy. The Walnut Room is co-owned by Michael Sears, a successful local serial entrepreneur and Candida Musanti, and a Johnson & Wales graduate. Their vision is about experience; comforting yet elegant, with rich music to get lost in conversation to.
The Walnut Room seems hidden in plain sight as we approach. There is no street-side sign, only the gilded logo on the door, which is flanked by windows full of deep red velvet curtains on either side. There are no passwords or secret doors, yet still you feel transported back to a gilded age, one of deep wood paneling and frosted light fixtures with gold accents. The eclectic, globally inspired music is comfortably present, but soft enough for you to speak in hushed tones. Despite its proximity to both RISD and Brown University, the clientele skews a bit older, and represents a range of young professionals from across the city coming together to experience the transcendent atmosphere.
Their menu is double-sided and elegant with crisp black type. On it you’ll find familiar offerings like the locally adored espresso martini, as well as some enduring house favorites such as “The Straight to Hell,” which my companion ordered – a playful mix of ginger and raspberry which pair surprisingly delicately with the Mezcal in the drink. I myself ordered the “Freeman In Paris,” a light and sweet concoction with high drink-ability, despite its spirit-forward nature. Its combination of gin, lime, and absinthe resulted in a satisfying and incredibly well-curated sip. Some other favorites included “The Eye,” a tropical passion fruit and rum delight, and the “Smoking in the Boys Room,” aptly named after its heavy smoke presence in contrast to the more subtle “Straight to Hell.” All of the glassware is appropriately elevated to match the creations inside – etched stemware and cut crystal rocks glasses – and the garnishes are simple and understated to let the cocktails truly shine.
I took a moment to speak with Dallas, at the bar, for the inside scoop on what makes the bar program so special at The Walnut Room. During our conversation, he suggested I try the Bonal Aperitif, a feature of the “Smoking in the Boys Room,” on its own. Bonal is a fortified wine from the French Alps which is lush with botanicals like yellow gentian, quinine and orange. It’s often used in place of sweet vermouth and has a similar bitter quality to an Amaro. It was created in 1865 by a former Chartreux monk, and after a sample, I too was a believer. Centum Herbis was another liqueur he suggested I try, an integral component of their “#100” cocktail, which adds a herbaceous depth of flavor to the drink. In addition to their superior mixology, The Walnut Room offers a robust, top-notch selection of bourbon and scotch. For our sober companions they also carry analogs of common spirits in NA forms, but there is no physical mocktail menu. Just ask Dallas or any of their fabulous bartenders to create you a spiritless cocktail!
If, like me, after a few drinks you need a little snack to sustain you, there are options like olives, chips, crackers, or nuts to round off the experience. Sinking back on to the couch I take in the peacefulness of it all. There’s definitely something special here at The Walnut Room, and I most certainly will be back.