Admittedly, much of my work has focused on the familiar and where my upbringing was centered: the South Side and the West End, where I lived for the first forty years of my life. Even the East Side has garnered much love among my musings, given my career path and where it has led. For this article, however, I wanted to shift the spotlight onto the often-overlooked North End. I also wanted to steer clear of anything too blatantly cliché when it comes to these types of write-ups, so there will be no mention of apple picking or anything pumpkin-flavored. Let’s face it, Smith Hill and beyond is rarely mentioned when chatting up places to go; peruse the local periodicals for proof. That’s not for lack of alluring locales, but it can be a challenge to stand out in a city that labels itself the Creative Capital.
Let’s kick off this fall crawl at the very heart of Smith Hill, where the commanding State House cuts a sharp divide between the downtown border and the start of a sprawling, working-class enclave. This Rhode Island icon of classical architecture oozes a certain seasonal charm when visited in autumn. The rolling lawns catch a refreshingly cool breeze, due to the enveloping low wall that wraps around the entire block. The sparse tree coverage can make this an unforgiving stroll in the heat of summer, but fall is the ideal time to take in this majestic, landscape-dominating structure. Politics disappear when in reverie of the ornate marble exterior. The admirer can almost sense the weight of government, even on a local level, all while under the eternal gaze of the Independent Man.
As a proper segue, a short walk further north on Smith Street will bring you to what was once a local political stronghold in its own right: Patrick’s Pub. Through the ‘60s and ‘70s, pre-Cianci, Providence policy was largely decided by a dominant Irish collective that would come to be known as the “Democratic Machine.” Men like Joseph Doorley and Larry McGarry were quietly responsible for dictating city infrastructure with Machiavellian efficiency. What started as a progressive, working-class movement quickly degenerated into a farce of back-room deals and casual dishonesty. Enter young, “anti-corruption” litigator Vincent “Buddy” Cianci, who would, ironically, make a name for himself in dismantling the machine, while propelling himself into the sphere of power for the next thirty years.
Through all of that, Patrick’s Pub stood as a haven for the old guard of PVD’s blue-collar elite. Its proximity to the State House made it common stomping grounds for those looking to cement discrete deals and talk shop over a few pints. There’s a certain sense of comfort in ducking into this textbook Irish pub on a crisp autumn evening. Its warm interior decor is enveloping, and the staff is always stellar. Sometimes there’s live Celtic music and they always have Motif on hand; so grab a copy, order up a Guinness and stay awhile.
Hungry afterwards? A short walk directly across the street brings us to one iteration of a Rhode Island exclusive that is a must-try: Baba’s Original New York System. While the Olneyville location may get the bulk of publicity and notoriety, this Smith Hill gem is frankly, in my opinion, better food, and owner Taner Toprak is an absolute joy to chat with. A year ago, they were on the verge of having to close, but they’ve bounced back. This also happens to be the state’s very first New York System, dating back to 1927, so order up a few “all the way” alongside a coffee milk. Take my word for it, they taste better in autumn for some reason.
If fine dining is more your speed, then Los Andes on nearby Chalkstone Avenue cannot be missed. Their cuisine is authentic Peruvian/Bolivian, a unique niche on the PVD scene. You can’t go wrong with any pick from the seafood-heavy menu, but I am fond of the steak dish, Bistecca a lo Pobre. The real attraction here though is their immaculate decor. The Mayan/Aztec imagery and spirit add a sense of history and depth. The massive, U-shaped layout wraps around a gorgeous enclosed courtyard with an ornate fountain and foliage galore. The purposeful design features tall, open windows that offer an idyllic dining experience. This semi-al-fresco display is even more divine in the autumn, it seems. Enjoy a drink, exquisite service, and mouthwatering delicacies while feeling the cool breeze roll across the exposed courtyard.
Allow me to wrap this up with something at least remotely cliché for those diehard, traditionalist readers: fall foliage. Some people make long drives to simply observe New England leaves turn that certain shade of golden bronze; we take it for granted sometimes as Rhody residents. The Pleasant Valley Parkway runs parallel to Chalkstone Ave., just behind Los Andes. This curious strip of preserved greenery, carved into the heart of a sprawling urban setting, is the epitome of nature in the city. Abundant trees on either side of this pedestrian path promise to be a sea of fiery oranges and reds come fall. Now get out there and order something pumpkin-flavored!