Hispanic Heritage

Pozole

WEDNESDAY, SEP 4, 2024 – 12 DAYS TO DEADLINE

On September 4, the editors of Motif Magazine held a meeting with the writers to solicit ideas for the Hispanic Heritage issue. Someone suggested restaurant reviews. To which I responded, “How about a pozole review! I’m kind of passionate about pozole.” The editors always encourage the writers to write about their passions. One asked me, “What’s pozole?” I replied, “It is a traditional soup or stew from Mexico, usually made with hominy and pork. I love it, and there are some really good places to eat it in Rhode Island.” They gave me the go-ahead. I was excited but realized the deadline was just a week and a half away. Was that enough time to do this important topic justice? I was going to have to eat a lot of pozole in a short period. Oh, the life of a part-time freelance writer is hard; but somebody’s gotta do it.

SATURDAY, SEP 7, 2024 – MEXICO GARIBALDI RESTAURANT – 9 DAYS TO THE DEADLINE

Mexico Garibaldi Restaurant only serves pozole on the weekends. This reminds me of a saying used in Nicaragua, “Aprovecha, Macario, que esto no es diario.” (Meaning more or less: don’t take it for granted. It doesn’t come around every day.) This seems right to me when it comes to pozole; saving it for the weekend is a way of recognizing what a treat it is. I ask the waitress in heavily accented Spanish, “Why do you only have pozole on the weekend?” She answers me in heavily accented English, “Because it’s too much work to make every day.” When it arrives, the serving is huge! Don’t order the large one unless you plan to have it for lunch the next day, too. The bowl is loaded with pork and hominy. There is a side plate of radishes, limes, chopped onions, and shredded lettuce for garnishes. The thick red broth packs some substantial heat. Halfway through the serving, my stomach is full, my mouth is aglow, my forehead is sweating, and my nose is running; food is a whole-body experience! Thank you, Mexico Garibaldi Restaurant! My passion is confirmed.

TUESDAY, SEP 10, 2024 – AGAVE SOCIAL COCINA MEXICANA – 6 DAYS TO THE DEADLINE

I love this restaurant! I love everything about it. To be sure, this is not a traditional pozole. For one thing, it is not served with garnishes; for another, the broth is clear rather than red. However, I have no argument with a chef striking off in a new direction if they arrive at something this flavorful.

WEDNESDAY, SEP 11, 2024 – TAQUERIA LUPITA – 5 DAYS TO THE DEADLINE

Taqueria Lupita is a lovable five-table hole in the wall. The ceiling is hung with colorful cut paper banners with images of cacti, guitars, flowers, and skulls. There is a large screen TV playing Mexican music videos, a big map of Mexico, and an assortment of painted tin iguanas climbing the walls. The proprietors/cooks/servers are an elderly couple who are charming and welcoming. I can’t think of a better locale to eat a bowl of pozole. It is delicious! When I compliment it. The woman says, “Yeah because I make it all. Nothing out of cans.” I see this listing on the menu at Taqueria Lupita: pancita, beef tripe soup. I have noticed that if a restaurant has pozole on the menu, they are also likely to have tripe soup. It is usually called menudo, aka soap de mondongo, mole de panza, and pancita. I consider pozole and menudo the heaven and hell of Mexican cooking. I have tried to like menudo and I’ll admit it can be flavorful, but the texture always makes me put my spoon down.

FRIDAY, SEP 13, 2024 – CIELITO MEXICAN KITCHEN – 3 DAYS TO DEADLINE

The predecessor restaurant to Cielito was Tuxpan Taqueria in Central Falls. It was one of 30 national semifinalists nominated for Best New Restaurant by the prestigious James Beard Awards. I ate pozole there a couple of months ago and was very impressed, but when I called about a return visit, I was told they no longer served it. It was only available at their new restaurant that had just opened in Providence. I was excited to check it out. I went for lunch with a friend and was told pozole was only on the dinner menu starting at 4pm! So that is how my pozole quest came to an abrupt end. Here are some impressions of Cielito: it is a pretty little jewel box of a space smack in the middle of downtown Providence. Parking is a pain in the neck. It is a new restaurant, and they are still working out some kinks. The food was fine and I look forward to diving into a future pozole.

SATURDAY, SEP 14, 2024 – 2 DAYS TO DEADLINE

I am getting ready to send this article to Motif and I type my last line: The editors like it when I get my stuff in early! •