Winter in PVD: Cozy hangouts and haunts in the creative capital

While New England winters can sometimes seem to drag on for an eternity, take my word for it, they do not. They do eventually end, and an eager populace will eventually spring back into spring. But during those dire Decembers and frigid Februarys, it’s important to note that our gorgeous capital city offers a host of sanctuaries from the blustery breezes mustered up by Old Man Winter. These are all tried and true institutions that are inviting hangouts anytime of year, but they may just seem a tad more special when viewed through the lens of a cozy winter retreat. Holiday lights, snow-dusted strolls and sledding certainly have their own appeal, but let’s take a moment to appreciate our indoor, heated hideaways.

Before circling back to the home of the Superman Building, there is one Rhode Island summer standard that deserves mention. Located just ten minutes from PVD, and nestled along the waters of Oakland Beach in Warwick is Iggy’s Doughboys and Chowder House. Enough has been written about Iggy’s as a local warm weather staple with amazing seafood and oceanside views. But the keen eye will note that in the off-season, this normally crowded landmark can be an under-the-radar gem in the coldest of weather. The secret lies in their tent-enclosed seating area and its ornate fireplace that dominates one entire corner. Panoramic views of the beach wrap around like a warm embrace. Meanwhile, Iggy’s serves up some of Rhode Island’s freshest seafood. Incidentally, this off-season lull is what makes winters in Newport special. Small crowds make for cozy retreats, particularly when the temperatures have dipped.

A hop back over to the capital city brings us to PVD’s historic east side. While Brown University and RISD may dominate much of the real estate, just off campus from both of those institutions is Wickenden Street – an eclectic mix of unique shops and eateries. For this winter pit stop, however, we are concentrating on one in particular – the Coffee Exchange. This long-time local favorite is no clandestine secret if you’re familiar with the area, but there is something special about ducking into this homey hole-in-the-wall during winter and cozying up with a warm cup at one of their weathered wooden tables. Consider ordering their Dirty Chai. You can thank me later.

Closer to College Hill is another favorite that has enchanted locals for generations. The RISD Museum on Benefit Street houses a cornucopia of art collections from every era, culture, and genre imaginable. Plan ahead and count on spending an easy two to three hours strolling the silent halls of this understated sanctuary. Peruse marvels of the art world while dodging freezing winds. The museum, like all proper museums, is a loiterer’s dream where lackadaisical dallying is not only encouraged, it’s integral to the experience. Echoes of history and hordes of creativity haunt every inch of wall space in this PVD institution. As an added bonus, admission is free on Sundays from 10am-5pm, and Thursday evenings from 5pm-8pm.

Let’s shift our landmarks to the city’s south side, keeping our museum aesthetic going. While a park may not seem ideal in winter, Roger Williams Park does contain an often overlooked treasure that deserves mention. The Museum of Natural History has served this city for over a century, and also houses the state’s only public planetarium. The shows in this dome theater use a projector to cast images of stars, planets, and constellations to simulate the night sky. Current exhibits in the museum include: Circle of the Sea, Flight of the Dinosaurs, James Webb Space Telescope, Natural Selections, Urban Wildlife, and Seismic Shifts.

Lastly, in a city filled with foodies, I’d be remiss not to mention one fine dining experience whose ambiance seems even more exquisite during a snowy evening. CAV, in the city’s ever-evolving Jewelry District, is easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there. Not only is the food remarkable, but the decor is breathtaking. Every seat feels enveloped by individual pieces of art, sculptures, and lighting. The stark difference here is that every decoration is available for sale. It’s one-part antique store, one-part museum, with an impeccable menu. It’s a uniquely PVD experience. Providence winters have their own kind of magic. It’s in the flurry-dusted sidewalks of the Armory District and in the chilly strolls across Waterplace Park. It’s in the twinkling lights dotted up and down Federal Hill, and the glow of the State House hovering on the horizon. But that doesn’t mean that the creative capital can’t offer more than a few cozy retreats as well. So, this winter, take pride in Providence. Seek refuge from the cold and indulge in some cozy, indoor vibes. ••

Photo courtesy of Gina Montecalvo.