Art

Rhode’s Clothes: Part 2 – Establishing the Gradient

In part two of a multi-part series, spiritual but non-native Rhode Islander, and native Londoner Afrozina explores what “fashion” means in RI. This chapter picks up with discussions on the topic held at a recent, fashion-forward fundraiser for Wooly Faire.

It was commonly agreed that Rhode Islanders dress primarily for practicality. Studio Hours’ Emma felt that people in RI are very interested in everyday, wearable basics, particularly for layering. Basics are unpatterned, mutedly coloured, standardly cut, casually fitting clothes intended to be worn day-to-day, with an ability to be unclashingly restyled and re-paired with a range of outfits. Given the inconsistency of New England weather, it makes sense that practicality would be a key component in deciding fashion. Layering basics becomes beneficial when a sunny day is unexpectedly overpowered by wind, or when winter requires a thermal layer under your t-shirt. Dressing for practicality becomes particularly necessary during winter, as we are not in a climate that can accommodate wearing only an “alcohol blanket,” as opposed to a jacket. In winter, certain items that can meet both trend and practicality shine: knee-high leather boots, bold coats – be they in fabric, cut, or length – and stylish scarves are sought after. These often represent the extent to which people will see someone’s outfit. 

This idea of an interchangeable wardrobe is called a ‘capsule wardrobe.’ It assembles simple, classic pieces that mesh well together. Sarah, from Pawtucket, mentioned that many customers were interested in these transferable “capsule pieces,” demonstrating the impact on people’s behaviour and intention towards fashion, as a result of the practicality required by RI weather. It is then, during summer, that we get a clearer picture of how RI really likes to dress.

Summer in RI takes place amongst green surroundings under bright blue skies, pierced by a radiant sun. Amidst the vibrancy, people often adorn in white and light denims, representing the traditional timelessness of the coastal New England aesthetic. This can be clearly seen in Newport, Narragansett, and smaller coast towns, where many Rhode Islanders will venture when the sun permits. Compared to the rest of the state, Newport harbours a far more traditional, legacy-oriented aesthetic, reminiscent of grainy film, lacrosse team photos, and our neighbouring Kennedys. Walking among beachfront, colonial-style mansions, Newport is like a living postcard, with sleek linen sets, Talbots blouses on “chic grandmas,” and little Ralph Lauren bears appearing on chests and caps all around. American flags on Irish wool mirror those on mansion front porches and make you believe, for a second, in a perfect, East Egg American dream.

Dani, from Daydream Vintage told me of a prevalent “wellness chic” vibe in Newport that has made its way into fashion statements. More commonly in Newport, young women are styling themselves in athleisure, giving gym clothes the added purpose of style as well as functionality. Matching legging sets in baby shades, ballet-style wrap cardigans, and LuluLemon labels seem to have elevated gym clothes into an entire aesthetic. Routinely paired on Pinterest and Tiktok are images of minimalist-decorated cafes, matchas and smoothie bowls, with reformer studios, puppy yoga, and “hot girl walks” – fitness repackaged into chic wellness. A look epitomized and likely inspired by LA’s wellness culture.

On Tiktok and Instagram, there’s this fascination with an unspecified conglomerate of “The Girls.”  It presents through discussions of what The Girls are wearing this summer, what The Girls are wearing to cocktails, to drinks, to dinner, and it builds on itself to attempt to pioneer a larger culture of chicness based on the vibe of the city that these Girls are in. 

According to Tiktok, The Girls in Manhattan are wearing little black dresses and taking their drinks on the High Line. These Girls are affluent, in their mid-20s, drinking and dining, and perceived with some similarity to the onscreen New Yorkers like Carrie Bradshaw and Serena Van der Woodsen. The Girls in Boston are wearing black bodysuits and lightwash jeans – college-age or not, their IDs will be grilled the same, and this coined “Boston Uniform” must have that title for a reason. The Girls in Madrid can never go wrong with “jeans and a nice top”, and The Girls in Paris love their monochrome.

Following that theme, The Girls in RI would be in Providence or Warwick, donning ’90s slips by night and low-rise jeans by day, a decade passing overnight. Cherry Coloured Junk assured me that the Y2K (year-2000) aesthetic that gripped Gen Z around 2020 still has a firm hold, though parts of it are shedding in lieu of a sleeker, more minimalist, ’90s-inspired look. Though prevalent before the recent Carolyn Bassette craze, the uptick of ’90s nostalgia in film and television has surely not harmed it! Bold colours fade toward neutral, patterns are evening, and a desire for the lasting quality of old clothes has stirred particular attention to fabrics. 

You might be able to see these Girls of RI out on the town, but they only represent one online impression of le plus chic we think a city can be. If I’ve learned anything about Rhode Island, I’ve learned not to put any part of it solely in one category. 

Follow along to part III in the next issue to discuss the journey that has cultivated Rhode Island’s fashion to what it is now!

Keep up with Emma at @studiohours.shop, Dani at @daydreamvntg, and @cherrycolouredjnk on social media!