In the shadow of the concrete chaos that is the Washington Bridge closure, along our city’s Route 195, is a pristine park that we all know and love. I won’t pretend that India Point is under the radar, as it is the only conduit that the creative capital has to the ocean via the Providence River. Many of us have attended festivals, gone for strolls, and have even entertained some dates along its picturesque paths. Some thirty years ago, I myself had my first kiss ever there.
For this piece, however, I wanted to pay a proper homage to this lush landmark and paint it as the start for what could be a stellar date day. Some months back, I wrote the article “Date Night: PVD” (motifri.com/date-night-pvd-restaurant-edition); I wanted this to be the antithesis to that. These suggestions are way casual, ideal for even those sometimes awkward first dates. In addition, this guide is purposely designed as a date day, in that it will certainly bleed into the evening if all goes well.
The state of Rhode Island has no shortage of woodsy escapes and wide swaths of forest. Lincoln Woods, Arcadia and Big River come to mind initially, but none of those are even remotely close to the capital city proper. India Point is an oasis many of us can walk to, and as of this April, it has finally fully reopened after a year of major construction. Before we get to that, however, let’s rewind to the neighborhood’s past.
Fox Point, nestled quietly among the upper echelon of the East Side’s elite, had been a longstanding, blue-collar haven, housing several generations worth of Cape Verdeans and Portuguese. Many of those sought and found employment at nearby Brown University for menial, but decent paying labor. Rewinding even further, it’s necessary to explain why these vibrant cultures came to even inhabit this area to begin with.
The Portuguese and Cape Verdeans have always had a penchant for seafaring, coastal towns with plenty of fishing opportunities. This traces back to their topographical island-living off the coast of West Africa and the Azores. They brought these traditions with them when they began emigrating en masse through the ‘80’s and ‘90’s, settling mostly in the nearby cities of Fall River and New Bedford. This new wave of New England immigrants would eventually trickle down to Providence’s only oceanside zip code, where maritime industry still reigned supreme at the time.
For our purposes, this date begins early, with a breathtaking, morning ferry ride only available June through October. Seastreak is an East Coast-based ferry company that operates a route betweenProvidence, Bristol and Newport. And it happens to be based out of India Point Park. The hour long ride to Newport is worth the reasonable ticket price alone, and it beats driving in. Once in Newport, this date can travel any number of avenues; the choices for dining and entertainment are daunting. I will leave that up to you, the reader. Newport is not the focal point of this piece, but merely a fun distraction.
Let’s bring this boat back to the banks of India Point and keep this date going. If the Newport excursion hasn’t taken its toll, take a stroll across the footbridge that traverses over the 195, connecting the park to Fox Point. The obvious next pit-stop here would be Wickenden Street, with its eclectic collection of bars, restaurants and cafes. If you’re familiar with my work at all, however, you will know that I am never cliche.
For this piece, let’s shift our focus to two nearby side streets that are carving out their own niche in nightlife with subdued stateliness: Governor and Ives. While mostly residential, these hidden gems house a handful of funky spots, as perfect complements to any date. Let’s begin at Governor Street, where it meets Wickenden. Be warned, from here on out, the dominant theme of this date day becomes varied small bites, tapas and sweets.
Aguardente at the very start of Governor is a triumvirate of distinct sources of inspiration, centered around the respective cultures of its three founders: Guatemalan, Portuguese, and Azorean. The menu reflects this eclectic enigma of ethnicities and it all just…works! The eternally evolving drink selection is themed month to month.
Just a bit further down Governor, semi-camouflaged amid a row of handsome Victorian-style homes, is Tea at Sahara. This desert themed oasis offers light fare and savory bites.The real lure here is twofold: their cozy, Moroccan ambiance, with plush couches and wide selection of exotic teas. Their patio seating in the rear is a must in warmer weather.
One block over is Ives Street. There’s a bit more buzz here, but I will focus on two personal favorites, both newcomers to the scene. Aleppo Sweets is a Syrian themed bakery where dessert takes center stage, but even some light spice is offered by way of appetizers and quick bites. They invite the loiterer to linger with board games and cards, complete with rules for traditional Syrian games.
Further down Ives is no newcomer to the Providence restaurant scene, but they are new to Fox Point. At their original location in the heart of downtown, at the foot of the pedestrian bridge, Dune Brothers was an impossible-to-miss landmark with its bright red shack, walk-up window and ample outdoor seating. While that prime real estate was never meant to be their permanent home, it seems they’ve finally settled in Fox Point. Dune Brothers is quite simply some of the best seafood I’ve ever had; nothing more needs to be said about that.
Allow me to conclude this exhaustive date day with a bit of random trivia for the adventurous duo looking to walk just a bit further. Earlier I mentioned the site of Roger Williams’ first landing. A piece of the rock that his boat first touched is cleverly concealed on the campus of Brown University. For this bit of Rhode Island lore, travel to 75 Waterman Street and walk through the ornate arch onto their “main green”. To the immediate left is a standard statue of their mascot, a majestic bear on its hind legs. Walk around to the rear of this statue and look towards the base for a square-foot sized segment of aged limestone that stands out from the rest. A faded inscription describes its significance. I hope you enjoyed our date day; let’s do it again sometime!
Photo: Lover’s Locks at India Point by Gina Montecalvo
