This is the story of visiting Providence’s newest Rotisserie and Bistro, Thermia, and being so intrigued by its menu and feeling so welcomed by the staff, that I went twice in one week! To give you a taste (no pun intended) of the experience, I’ll start by saying that once you arrive in the historic Rising Sun Mills complex where it lives (a 200-year-old former factory in the neighborhood of Olneyville), you’ll find yourself surrounded by tall brick structures, beautiful flowers, people walking their dogs, and then you might ask yourself, “Which door do I use to get in?!” Let me tell you right away that it is not the one from the street, it is the door facing the parking lot (my date graciously accepted that he was sitting in front of the backdoor which several people mistakenly used). Upon entering, you’ll be engulfed in a color scheme of deep greens and browns and the smell of goodness, an ambience that delivers on the eatery’s promise to create a “warm, intimate, and quietly romantic” place for people to come together. Sister restaurant of SOTT and PVD Noodle Bar, Thermia distinguishes itself by presenting a menu that centers “rotisserie-roasted meats and Mediterranean-inspired dishes,” where “the goal is comfort without heaviness [and] tradition without nostalgia.”
During my first visit, I tried the Thermia O.G. Chicken with jus and herb-roasted, hand-cut potatoes, my date ordered the Thermia Burger (with bacon), an angus short rib patty with truffle aioli and hand-cut fries, and we shared chicken croquettes, carrots, and Argentinian shrimp. While the burger and shrimp were fine, the standout of the meal was the house specialty, literally melting in my mouth and making me feel like I was eating something that came out of the kitchen in a family home. The rotisserie chicken is so juicy and delicious, paired with a rainbow of roasted potatoes. I highly recommend it. Also of note is the generous serving size: My date and I could’ve easily shared this entrée. The chicken croquettes certainly brought the Mediterranean feel to my evening as well, reminding me of a time when I lived in Seville, Spain, and one of my favorite tapas to order was “croquetas.” To my surprise, I also really liked the carrots (I’m picky about my vegetables) – so simple, made with butter and lemon, and served with macadamia nuts.
We also ordered a few drinks, the Rum Spritz (rum blanco, limoncello and yuzu), the Gold Sour (whiskey, honey, lemon and foam), and the non-alcoholic Mango Tango. I would say my favorite of those three was the Gold Sour, it felt like a perfect addition to the decadent meal. The most unexpected moment of the night was when dessert came. My date had been to Thermia before and he said I had to try the Sticky Toffee Pudding. Since I trust him I said sure, despite the fact that I’m not a bread pudding or sweets person. Upon taking the first bite of this dessert I literally gasped, said, “Oh my God,” and told my date, “I’d come to this place just for this.” The toffee sauce (made in-house daily), vanilla ice-cream, and bread pudding combination made for a sweetness that is hard to describe. It was so good I had to take half of it home and have it for breakfast the next day! We also had the Basque Cheesecake (with strawberry compote), a fabulous option as well. But my favorite of the night (truly) was the Toffee Pudding.
The second time I went to Thermia I took myself on a solo date, sat at the “speakeasy” vibes bar, and ordered a Sangria with the second most popular rotisserie option on the menu, the Harissa Chicken. The house-made harissa, herb roasted hand-cut potatoes and the rotisserie deliciousness made for a second meal that was better than the first. Of the two chicken dishes the Harissa was the winner for me, it is described as having a spiciness that the O.G. entrée does not, but it is very slight (so don’t be afraid to try it if you’re not a “spicy” eater).
Another highlight in visiting Thermia, in addition to its upscale comfort food and its vintage décor (if you like gallery walls, you’re in for a treat), was the welcoming environment created by its thoughtful staff. Dawn Olsen (server), Justin Silmon (bartender) and Haewon Lee (server) all made me feel like I was a regular. When we had dinner the first time, Dawn went out of her way to make sure everything was to our liking; it was an unusually busy Tuesday night and she was managing it beautifully. Justin personally brought our drinks to the table that night and answered my curious questions. All three staff members shared that the restaurant was only a few months old and that in that time they had seen steady growth.
The arrival of Thermia in the Providence food scene has added a restaurant that, just like its slow-roasted chicken, allows for people to take it easy, enjoy their food mindfully, and create shared memories with loved ones and strangers alike, at their own pace.
Thermia “is led by Chef Jaewoo Choi, who helped bring [the restaurant] to life and oversees the broader culinary direction” of this endeavor. If you’d like to learn even more about this spot visit thermiapvd.com, follow them @thermiaprovidence, and do yourself a favor and order the Harissa Chicken, the Croquettes and the Toffee Pudding to soothe your sweet tooth. I heard their Caesar salad is good too, maybe I’ll try it on my third visit (spoiler alert: my mom and I went recently and she ordered the salad with added pork belly and it was incredible!).